They should still play with dolls, talk about cartoons and fill the bedroom with soft toys, but instead of Barbie their object of desire is the latest eye contour cream, anti-aging, masks against the first phantom blackheads or exfoliants for peeling. On social media they post selfies while they are dealing with daily skincare, they talk about texture, tone and firming of the skin like seasoned experts and recommend products with the attitude of a marketing person. They are not teenagers but the previous generation, or rather the “little girls” (woe to calling them that), the pre-adolescents. In the United States they call them le Sephora Kids: belong to Generation Alpha – born after 2010 – and are passionate about beauty products, especially those dedicated to skin care.
Dermatitis and permanent damage: doctors’ alarm about skincare “baby influencers”.
An example? The latest obsession bouncing around TikTok it’s the “face shaving routine for women” or DermaplaningSimply put, the removal of fine facial hair using a small precision razor. The blade together with the hairs also eliminates the superficial layer of dead cells, leaving the skin smoother. In this way the makeup spreads evenly with the porcelain effect that is so fashionable, on the Japanese or Korean model. The skin, however, becomes very sensitive in this way, with the risk of irritation from the sun’s rays or inflammation. Problems that do not slow down the very young in any way.
The addiction to cosmetics, born in United Statesis infecting girls and boys, between the ages of 6 and 11, all over the world and, obviously, has its social idols of reference. Taylen Biggs11 years old, fashion beauty influencer, has become a regular guest at major fashion shows; Pixie Curtis12 years old, already has a fortune of around 7 million euros thanks to sponsored posts on body care. Both have to contend with fierce and even younger competitors like the twins Haven And Koti Gaza7 years old, come on TikTokgive advice on skincare routines to 7 million followers. Spreading creams and serums by filming yourself has become the new game of digital natives, often driven by famous parents. If previously little girls imitated their mothers, today they follow influencers and actresses who teach on social media how to apply adult beauty products.
On TikTok the famous American model Kim Kardashian shares her account with her 10-year-old daughter and published a video in which the little girl alone showed her beauty routine to the page’s 19 million followers. The phenomenon is driven by the cosmetics industry which has found a true gold mine in the very young. To attract them, use targeted advertising and colorful packaging, i.e. eye-catching packaging in pastel colors or that recall characters from films and TV series, with the aim of stimulating Fomo(fear of missing out, the fear of remaining excluded from the current trend). For companies it means reaching a “virgin” clientele to win over and retain and on whom they can count in the years to come. In fact, until a few years ago, facial treatments were aimed at those aged over 20-25, while now they start with those under 10.
As reported by Statesmanmarket data platform, tween skincare, that of pre-teens, is currently worth $450 million and leads the growth of the skin care market. It is expected to grow over the next five years, at an annual rate of around 7.71 percent.
Pre-adolescent skincare: Italy ranks fourth in the world for “baby” consumption
Among the countries in which the phenomenon is most present, the following emerge United Stateswhere an army of little more than infants spends an average of $399 per capita per year on products. They follow the South Koreathe China and, fourth in the world, theItaly where it is estimated that the sector will close 2025 with a turnover of around twenty million dollars and will have a growth of 9.48 percent between now and 2029. The phenomenon is taking root in our country as demonstrated by the trend of birthdays in “baby spas”, places where eight, nine, ten year old girls are wrapped in soft bathrobes, immersed in exotic perfumes and subjected to small-sized beauty rituals: shea butter massages, soothing masks, pastel-coloured manicures, foot baths with essential oils, relaxation programs and even facial treatments.
Social media has a huge influence. The format Grwm (“get ready with me”) in which the protagonist films herself while applying make-up, perhaps describing her daily life, is the main method for spreading beauty routines, in particular on TikTok. However, this business comes up against questions, if not ethical, then at least of responsibility. The cosmetics that tweens buy are often for adults, and therefore unsuitable for their faces. Ingredients such as retinol and exfoliating acids used as anti-aging can produce allergies or eczema in very young people.
Here’s what he says Angelo Marzanoprofessor of dermatology at theUniversity of Milan and director of dermatology of Milanese polyclinic: «The risks for children who make early use of skincare products intended for adults are multiple. First of all, skin irritation because the epidermal barrier is in the process of being formed, as is the skin’s immune system. There could be a worsening of atopic dermatitis in already affected subjects, as it is a very common disease in pediatric age. Another risk is allergic dermatitis from contact with certain substances, such as preservatives contained in creams. At the moment we do not know the effects of early exposure to certain substances on the developing infant immune system. An increase in certain contact pathologies can be hypothesized. Finally, since there is self-management of the products by the children, there is the danger of contamination of the conjunctival and oral mucous membranes, with consequent irritation.” It is no coincidence that the hashtags #AtopicDermatitis or #KeratosisPilare have exceeded 40 million views on TikTok.
Kim Kardashian’s makeup and baby spas: how social media is “adultizing” children
Some players have taken a stand. In Sweden the pharmacy chain Apotek Hjärtat has announced that it will stop selling anti-aging skincare products to under-15s without parental consent. Kiehl’sa brand owned by L’Oréal Grouplaunched a campaign against the use of cosmetics for children, while Where has developed, with the name TheFaceof10a series of initiatives to raise awareness among young people about the improper use of anti-aging products.
In addition to the impact on the skin there is the impact on the psyche. «There is an ongoing early adultization of children induced by their parents. Children are treated like “grown-ups”. At the same time we are witnessing an adolescentisation of parents who reject adulthood and behave like teenagers and are unable to pass on an educational model to their children. The result is an extreme fragility of young people”, is the analysis of Stefano Vicariprofessor of child neuropsychiatry atCatholic University of Rome and primary to Baby Jesus. Who adds that “there is a tendency to create an image of perfection, detached from reality, which is difficult to compare with”. The chase for cosmetics may initially seem like a game, as it grows it creates a very high standard of beauty and tells the girl “you’re not good for who you are”.
«Since my early adolescence they have been asking me for lip touch-ups or rhinofillers. They come to the studio with parents who rarely discuss with me what cosmetics to use”, says the well-known aesthetic doctor Anadela Serra Viscontimember of Italian society of aesthetic medicine. The parental role is essential to educate girls and adolescents about the importance of self-care, not limited to skincare and make-up, but extended to mental and physical health. But then the adults, as the professor says Vicarsadults should do. And that’s another story.
