The creative Georgian draws the new anthropology of the double G, revealing the lookbook of the summer season with a day in advance on the calendar
The aesthetic verb of Demna, a creative neo -director of Gucci, arrives a day in advance. The presentation of the collection will take place, as per the calendar of the fashion chamber, tomorrow, September 23 at the end of the day: not a classic parade, but a film. A short, as a tasting of what will be the first real collection of the Georgian designer, who we will admire in February 2026. Meanwhile, at 9 o’clock, the press release arrives with the first lookbook of the new season of the brand of the two G. The images were taken by the American photographer Catherine Opie, whose work has always focused on the documentation of the relationships between people belonging to the same family, community, clan, a neighborhood in relation to the place. to which they live and operate. Not a random choice, given that the title of the collection is the family. And so far, nothing to complain. Too bad that the Gucci family is truly sui generis. Leaving every foothold with reality (to which the Opie is strongly anchored in its works, but evidently has now changed), the G-Family is made up of: the pissed off, the bad, the bomb, miss aperitif, the countess, the Sciura and the Primadonna, the patron. On the male side, we find the prince instead. Each of these “anthropological” types is combined with a look, ranging from the red coat of the 1970s with the printing of flora motif, from the bomber in black crocodile with miniskirt combined with garments with the GG Monogram. In short, nothing new under the sky of the two G. from Tom Ford to Alessandro Michele, there are all the shades of the glamor already seen and interpreted in the past. The idea, we learn from the press release is to bring back “the art of peeling, a casual elegance that describes the Italian lifestyle”. Squeeze, instead reads the Treccani dictionary, is an attitude marked by a sense of superior detachment, with a pleasant appearance of spontaneity and naturalness. In short, he, with his past, his history, his disruptive vision, which has distorted the codes of a brand like Balenciaga, for better or for worse, is now here to bring back the type of “those … who, with the only demeanor, with a certain native security, with an elegant squeeze” feel above everything and everyone. At the moment, it remains that suspending every critical thinking and waiting for Gucci’s creative director to be expressed with an innovative grammar and a less retro thought in February.
