Heroic viticulture, biodiversity and climate change: Patrick Ronzani and Nicolas Bovard tell why mountain wines, and those of the Aosta Valley in particular, are the future of wine
Steep terraces, vineyards clinging to the rock, extreme climates and hands still working plant by plant: mountain viticulture is not just a production choice, but a philosophy. In a historical moment in which wine is experiencing a profound transformation, between decline in consumption and climate change, the highest areas of Europe are demonstrating a surprising capacity for adaptation and innovation. There Aosta Valley it is one of the most interesting laboratories of this evolution, where millenary tradition, biodiversity and scientific research intertwine. They talk about it Patrick Ronzaniresponsible for the viticulture and oenology sector of the Institut Agricole Régional, e Nicolas Bovardpresident of the Valle d’Aosta Wine Consortium.
Heroism is not the slope, but the contact with the vine
«From a marketing point of view – explains Ronzani – heroic viticulture is told through slopes, verticality, effort. But true heroism is something else: we live the vineyard every day, we touch every plant, we get to know them one by one. The impossibility of mechanization forces us into this direct and intimate relationship with the vine, and that’s where quality is born.”
In an increasingly standardized wine world, the artisanal dimension of Aosta Valley vineyards becomes a distinctive value. «In areas where you have 100 hectares – he continues – everything is the same and governed by machines. Here every parcel is different, every row tells a story.”
The unique terroir of the Aosta Valley
The Aosta Valley is one of the smallest wine-growing regions in Europe, but also one of the most complex and fascinating: «We have a thousand-year history and a unique climate: especially in the center of the valley it rains little, which means less treatments and therefore very sustainable agriculture.”
Climate change, often seen as a threat, has in some cases even improved the quality of certain mountain vines: «Some varieties today reach ripeness levels that were previously difficult». For this reason, the Consortium has asked to officially raise the quotas of the DOC areas, paving the way for ever higher vineyards.
Which vines for the vineyards of the future
Not all grapes can rise in altitude. «The most suitable varieties are those that ripen early, such as Prié Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. At certain altitudes, however, the risk of spring frosts remains a limit.”
And this is where the work ofInstitut Agricole Régional. «We are selecting more resistant clones of Petit Rougea vine that today suffers from problems such as sunburn, rot and wood diseases. We are looking for sparser bunches and more resilient plants, to adapt viticulture to the changing climate.”
Biodiversity as a market strategy
The Aosta Valley production is tiny, but very rich in terms of biodiversity. «We have a heritage of native vines that has not yet been fully discovered – and it is a great opportunity. In a declining international market, real innovations are needed, and the native is what tourists look for when they come here.”
The reduction in global consumption is not seen as a condemnation, but as a natural selection. «We drink less – says Bovard – but we are looking for more quality. And mountain viticulture is a niche that can attract curiosity and value.”
Young people, research and teamwork
One of the biggest challenges remains generational change. «Young people today drink something else, often due to price and lack of wine culture. In Valle d’Aosta, however, we see many interested under 30s at wine events. It’s a positive sign.”
For Ronzani, the future also passes through cooperation: «Region, Consortium, Institut Agricole and Cervim must work together. The seasons are increasingly unpredictable, between heat, cold and irregular rainfall. Only by working as a team can we face the challenges of climate, disease and the market.”
AND while mass consumption retreats, vineyards that challenge the mountains could gain ground. Because, as Valle d’Aosta demonstrates, the wine of the future could really be born higher and higher.
