The Barolo epic began in rather remote times. It was the Stazielli Ligurians, an ancient people who settled in the Langhe, who cultivated the first primitive vineyards in the Alba area around two thousand five hundred years ago. Then came the time of the Gauls, who fell in love with that wine to the point that, according to some historical sources, their expansionist drive towards the territories beyond the Alps was also favored by the desire to access those exquisite productions. The ancient Romans, of course, were no different: the same Julius Caesarreturning from the Gallic War, brought to Rome a generous supply of wine produced in the Langhe.
Nonetheless, Nebbiolo entered written documents only in the Middle Ages. More precisely in 1268 when the term appeared for the first time in the castle of Rivoli Nibiol. It was the Renaissance, however, that marked the real turning point: in this period, the cultivation of the vine expanded, production grew, and fame began to spread. It was the beginning of the legend.
How Barolo became the “king of wines”
In 1751 something extraordinary happened: a group of Piedmontese diplomats had the happy decision to send a batch of «Barol» to London. The success was immediate. So much so that a few years later, even Thomas Jeffersonfuture president of the United States, visiting Europe, tasted that nectar. In his diaries he described it as “almost as lovely as Bordeaux and as lively as Champagne”. To tell the truth, it wasn’t an error of judgment: at that time, Barolo was actually sparkling, sweet, fresh. Those were times when the technique for completely transforming the sugars in the must into alcohol had not yet been mastered. Therefore, wine was a markedly different product than what we know today.
The transformation came around 1830, with a mix of nobility, winemaking skills and political vision. At the center of the scene there was Giulia Colbertgreat-grandson of the famous finance minister of Louis XIV of France, who married the Marquis Carlo Tancredi Fallettidescendant of a family of bankers and large landowners in the Langhe since 1250. When Carlo Tancredi died in 1838, Giulia inherited all the estates. The Marquise, a woman of exceptional intelligence, understood the potential of its properties. So he called Louis Oudarthighly experienced French winemaker, trained in the techniques of the best wines from beyond the Alps. And it was he who revolutionized the production process. Thus, Barolo became dry, firm, structured. More like how we know it today. It was first bottled as a dry wine in 1844 and rumors of its unrivaled taste spread throughout the courts of Europe.
At that point, king Charles Albert of Savoy Would you like to taste it. Thus, Giulia sent him 325 barrels: one per day, except for the 40 days of Lent, so that the sovereign and his court could enjoy them without interruption. And so in Turin, at the sovereign’s court, Barolo was consecrated with that expression which has remained famous: “wine of Kings, King of wines”.
In parallel, too Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour gave his own precious contribution to the Barolo epic. A man of European culture, a great admirer of French wines, when he became mayor of Grinzane he invited Oudart to take care of the family properties: another decisive stage in the improvement of the modern style of wine.
Territory, disciplinary and geological identity
After the death of the marquise Falletti in 1864, his estates were gradually sold to sharecroppers and farmers. The lands were fragmented into small properties, a characteristic that still profoundly characterizes the Langhe today, making them extremely similar, in terms of land structure, to the prestigious French Burgundy.
At the beginning of the twentieth century, Barolo was already so well known that it required protection from counterfeiting. Thus it was that in 1909 the Agricultural Consortium delimited the production boundaries, while in 1927 a decree published in the Official Gazette made the area official and precisely defined the geological areas. Those were hard times. Phylloxera, the parasite of American origin that devastated European vineyards between the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, also affected these areas, even during the First World War. Yet, the “king of wines” survived and continued to increase his fame.
Today, the production area extends over approximately two thousand hectares in southern Piedmont, on the slopes of the South-Western Alps, within the Langhe. Eleven municipalities fall into the exclusive denomination club: Barolo, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba in full, and in part La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Roddi, Verduno, Cherasco, Diano d’Alba, Novello and Grinzane Cavour. The specification provides for the exclusive use of Nebbiolo grapes grown within these boundaries, unchanged since 1966.
The truth is that, beneath the surface, the geology of Barolo explains the complexity of the wine: calcareous marl, sedimentary rocks composed of clay and calcium carbonate alternate with sandy sandstone. Two souls of the territory that translate into different styles even in the glasses.
The excellence of the Damilano winery
Among the historic Barolo companies, the Damilano winery certainly represents one of the most solid points of reference. Paul, Mario And Guido Damilano I am the fourth generation of the family at the helm. The company manages 58 hectares of vineyards in the most prestigious territories of the Langhe and can count on some of the most coveted so-called Additional Geographical Mentions of the denomination.
The most important of these is Cannubi, one of the most historically famous parcels of Barolo, from which Barolo Cannubi and Barolo Cannubi 1752 Riserva are born. The range is completed by Brunate, Cerequio, Liste, Castellero and Raviole. Inside the cellar there is also space for the restaurant «La Giorno 3810», led by the chefs Antonio Grasso and Edgar Chacchafor those who wish to combine the wine visit with top-level gastronomic accompaniment.
And how can you recognize Barolo? Well, undoubtedly with a transparent ruby color (typical of the Nebbiolo grape), which over time turns towards orange. What makes it unmistakable, however, is precisely the inseparable bond with its Piedmontese territory. In fact, they have tried to export Nebbiolo to other countries, but only in those peculiar conditions does it manage to survive. And only in those peculiar conditions is it able to give the best of itself, in the vineyard and in the glass. It couldn’t be otherwise.
