A report by China Labor Watch denounces the exploitation of minors and work shifts beyond legal limits to produce viral toys worth millions of euros, 577 million in the first half of 2025 alone
Pointy ears, huge eyes and a disturbing grin. The Labubu, “ugly but cute” are not simple plush toys or dolls, but are now a must to have, for children but above all for young people and adults. Hanging from the bags of stars, protagonists of millions of videos on social media and objects of desire so much so that they accept endless queues to have an original one. But now something “creaks”. According to a complaint by the NGO China Labor Watch, relaunched by Guardianpart of this success would rest on child labor, blank contracts and illegal production rates in the Chinese factories that supply Pop Mart, which sells them.
What are Labubu and why have they become a craze all over the world
The Labubu were born in 2015 from the imagination of the Hong Kong artist Kasing Lung and belong to the narrative universe “The Monsters”: elven, melancholic creatures, with an angular and disturbing appearance but with a gentle character. The leap comes in recent years when Pop Mart, the Chinese giant of designer toys, transforms them into collector’s items sold in blind boxes, the surprise boxes that do not reveal the contents until they are opened. This makes every purchase a gambling experience and fuels FOMO, the fear of being left out. Social media and celebrities do the rest and have done it. From Lisa of Blackpink to Rihanna, up to David Beckham and Madonna, Labubu become bag charms, fashion accessories, symbols of belonging to a global tribe. Endless queues in front of the shops, a thriving secondary market, with Labubu starting from 20 euros and reaching thousands of euros.
The numbers of the boom: millions, stock market and soft power
To understand Labubu’s success, just look at the accounts. In the first six months of 2025, “The Monsters” line generated approximately 4.8 billion yuan, equal to over 577 million euros, contributing more than a third of Pop Mart’s revenue. The company, listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange, has recorded a profit jump of close to 400% in the same period and a share growth of more than 200% since the beginning of the year. Pop Mart today is worth more than historic Western toy giants such as Mattel and Hasbro combined and is often cited as an example of China’s new soft power.
Labubu: China Labor Watch denounces child labor, blank contracts and record overtime
But now comes the investigation Guardianbased on a detailed report by China Labor Watch. The NGO conducted three months of investigations in the Shunjia Toys factory, in Xinfeng county, Jiangxi province, one of Pop Mart’s suppliers. The researchers interviewed laboratories exclusively engaged in the production of Labubu, including at least three minors. The Guardian highlights how, although the employment of young people between the ages of 16 and 18 is legal in China, the law provides for special protections which in this case would have been circumvented. Younger workers would be assigned to the same tasks as adults, on assembly lines, with identical loads and production goals. No adequate health and safety training and a substantial absence of differences in treatment. And then there are the contracts signed in blank. According to the testimonies collected, employees were asked to fill in only personal data, without information on salary, duration of the contract, duties or social security contributions. All in a few minutes, with the explicit indication not to read the rest of the document. A practice that effectively leaves workers without the tools to claim their rights.
And then there they are work rhythms. The investigation speaks of objectives considered unrealistic: teams of 25-30 people forced to assemble up to 4 thousand Labubu a day. To support global demand, the use of overtime would become systematic. Chinese law sets a limit of 36 hours of overtime per month, but many workers have reportedly exceeded 100 hours per month. Just think that the plant claims an annual production capacity of 12 million toys, but according to investigators’ estimates, just two teams could produce double that amount.
Pop Mart’s response was immediate. The company said it takes the well-being and safety of workers along its supply chain “very seriously”, carries out regular checks on suppliers and started internal checks after the NGO’s report, promising corrective action if violations were confirmed.
