Nicolas Ghesquière reinvents the past with an opulent collection inspired by the Middle Ages and the 1960s, presented in the suggestive Cour d’Onneur of the Avignon Festival
Rework the past to redefine the present. Once again the work of Nicolas Ghesquière It expresses itself through recodes historical references and synergistic contaminations between symbolic fashion eras. This collection is a kaleidoscopic masterpiece, opulent in the processes and details that speak of High craftsmanship, brand’s heritage and luxury. Metal mirrors and plaques decorate sumptuous damask or jacquard fabrics with metal reflections suggesting the idea of new urban armor, as well as fringes and clothing made of metal threads suggest a reinterpretation of the jersey cooked. The medieval suggestions, however, merge to the stylistic dictates of the sixties defined by the bon-ton style and the mini volumes. The shoes also support this mixture of styles by passing from mosqueting boots to dishes in soft skin, clear reference to the iconic ones designed by Pierre Cardin, embellished with mirrors, crystals and studs. There is no shortage of historical references to the eighties, a distinctive sign of the work of Ghesquière, who suggest important volumes on the shoulders and maxi t-shirt covered with metal plates. A multifaceted collection that underlines the strong link between art, fashion and history, and which shows how the literature of contemporary aesthetics goes beyond the epochal borders to tell a completely new narrative.
The Palazzo dei Papi of Avignon
The choice of the location, majestic and imposing, is not accidental. Every year, in July, the Cour d’Honneur of the Palazzo dei Papi hosts the Avignon Festival, the most important theatrical festival in the world, founded in 1947 and organized, at the time, by Jean Vilar. «I love the revolutionary vision and the determination of Jean Vilar, who arrived with his group of friends, actors such as Gérard Philipe and Jeanne Moreau, and said: It is impossible to do theater here, then let’s do it. This was pure artistic expression, the exaltation of the stage. Even fashion, today even more, has its theatricality, its element of entertainment and spectacularity “, explained Ghesquière who with this festival has a big emotional bond. “In the summer of 2000, a series of exhibitions and performance called”The Beauté in Fabula“It was staged in preparation for the Festival. After two days completely immersed in the incredible rooms of the Palazzo dei Papi, where for the first time I discovered the work of Bill Viola, who struck me deeply and influenced me a lot” recalls the designer. The scenography, curated by the artist ES Devlin, is, like the collection, a game of contrasts. The spaces are reversed, the staircase audience, reproduced with impressive chairs with impressive chairs with imposing chairs Conclave, it is empty, while the public is arranged on a stage with an enlightened floor that evokes atmospheres of 2001 odyssey in space. Brigitte Macron, Emma Stone, Cate Blanchett, Pharrel Williamsjust to name a few.
